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Anugrah yang luar yang diberikan oleh Alloh SWT Advertise The Digital Moses Confidential welcomes advertisements from advertisers, publishers, consultants, list managers, media specialists, website owners and all others interested in reaching the influential members of the online direct marketing industry. Join the top companies in online marketing by advertising with the Digital Moses Confidential! Contact editor@digitalmoses.com for rates and more information. "The Confidential is a great online publication for our industry. It keeps you up to date with TOP performing offers, affiliate networks, and current events. As an Affiliate Manager, I personally look forward to receiving it each week." - Ashely Lackore, AdDrive Senior Account Manager. "I enjoy reading the dmconfidential for the insight it provides me into industry. the articles are one of a kind - no one covers our niche like the dm confidential." - Ken Harlan PrimaryAds Inc. "Digital Moses has provided eAdvertising with both an avenue and resource for expanding our Network. The staff and service are extraordinary, and that personal touch combined with the results we have seen on our investment continue to provide a strong foundation for a succesful long-term relationship." - Evan Lovett Affiliate Facilitator "I enjoy reading DMConfidential weekly. I find that the articles are well thought out and timely, as well as informative. Reading DMConfidential is extremely useful in helping me keep up with what’s going on in the industry." - Michael Scotty 512media.net "Digital Moses is a great source for industry breaking news and the articles featured in the Thursday newsletter are creative, insightful and educational – I look forward to the new copy every week!" - Mariah Reilly Business Development YFDirect "I began writing for the Digital Moses confidential out of intrigue and interest in getting a few words out on the street. I began reading the Digital Moses confidential because of the insightful content and unique advertising strategy. Every week I can count on a variety of opinions and promotions from the biggest companies in our industry." - Bryan May CPA Manager vendaremedia.com "Advertising with Digital Moses is ALWAYS a profitable and pleasurable experience. From day one, we were extremely pleased and quite surprised with the results we received from our advertisements in the newsletters, and blogs. The leads have been coming in steady since we started and we have set up countless new accounts. Thank you!" - Michael Castellano, Director of Marketing, AffiliateNetwork.com "We have been advertising in Digital Moses for over a year and it is one of the only places online that we consistently advertise. The recently revamped blog format has made the newsletter even easier to update and allowed us to do even more with the layout of our advertisements." - Jeff Friedman, Affiliate Marketing Manager. MediaWhiz, Inc. "The DM Confidential newsletter is one of the few industry newsletters that really get it. With their recent redesign, the original content and relevant advertising have never been better." - Rob Jewell gratisinternet.com "The Digital Moses Confidential newsletter has been a great venue to further increase our exposure in the industry. The DM team is a pleasure to work with." - Laure Majcherczyk, CoregMedia.com "DMConfidential is a top notch newsletter run by market leaders for market leaders. It's insightful and relevant to our business. The only industry mag that I look forward to reading." - JP Sauve - MaxBounty.com "Digital Moses is a tremendous resource for industry insight and relevant articles that discuss important topics related to online marketing. Additionally, as a marketing tool for Adteractive, Inc., the publication has yielded many lucrative partnerships (clients and publishers). The folks behind the publication are honest and thoughtful. They are great to work with and I would recommend DigitalMoses to any reader to potential advertiser." - Diego Canoso - Adteractive.com "In an industry saturated with affiliate networks, advertising with Digital Moses helps to keep us on the forefront of our customers minds. Their targeted audience and fair rates have provided us with a great return on every dollar we've spent." - Jordan Visco - NeverblueAds.com "DMConfidential has proven to produce high quality articles and blogs from every angle of internet marketing. Every week I rely on the information provided by the most touted experts in the industry. I can't thank the individuals of DMConfidential enough for the enormous contribution they have made to the growth of our business. THANK YOU!" - Wade Schlosser - AffiliatePrograms.com To Advertise in Digital Moses contact editor@digitalmoses.com copyright © Digital Moses The articles and opinions expressed within are those of industry professionals and do not necessarily represent those of Digital Moses LLC

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Defense industries: ‘Outsmart’ limitations Diandra Megaputri and Al Araf, Jakarta | Fri, 10/14/2011 8:08 AM The government’s will to modernize Indonesia’s weapons system was again highlighted by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono at the 66th anniversary of the Indonesian Military (TNI) last week. However, limited defense budgets have always hampered the realization of such an agenda. Indonesia enjoyed 6.5 percent economic growth during the second quarter, reflected in a whopping 35 percent increase in the defense budget for 2012 to Rp 64.4 trillion (US$7.23 billion). Along with supporting economic conditions, a wider space has been created to improve the government’s commitment to modernizing weapons systems. To maximize utilization of the defense budget, the government should integrate its acquisition strategy and manage its measures carefully. As a country, Indonesia has two options to boost its defense. The first is to purchase of off-the-shelf military equipment; the second is to develop an indigenous defense industry. Taking the 1998-2005 weapons embargo as a lesson learned, the second option seems more pressing to avoid another dramatic degradation of the nation’s military capability, which is dependent on foreign suppliers. However, Indonesia’s state-owned defense companies are still facing both financial problems and a lack commitment from their stakeholders, which are the government, the TNI and the National Police. The worst conditions have been experienced by shipbuilder PT PAL and aircraft maker PT DI. Both require direct cash injections from the government to remain operational. Meanwhile, arms producer PT PINDAD has not received approval to produce its BT-250 bomb — a breakthrough for the industry. To make matters worse, regulations on defense industries have been interpreted in multiple ways, as evident in the controversy surrounding the initial public offering of PT Krakatau Steel. It is obvious that financial support of the nation’s defense industries is needed. Nevertheless, the challenge lies in how to allocate a “limited” budget. Without an integrated strategy, consistency and formal regulation, the funds might be spent in vain. The purpose of strategies and regulations are not to protect national defense industries from competition in the international arms marketplace, but to boost their capabilities. For instance, the cash injection given to PT PAL in 2009 saved the company, but was not sufficient to rebuild it. To meet the operational needs of state-owned defense industries, the government should adopt the concept of minimum essential force (MEF). For state defense industries, a minimum essential procurement (MEP) would be made to guarantee an industry’s continuity and to avoid additional direct cash injections that might increase its dependency on the government. The two concepts support each other, given that supporting state-defense industries would reduce the risk of international political tensions, such as embargoes. In line with a MEF, a MEP would also solve the budgetary constraints dilemma. In response, the Indonesian government could adopt a marketing strategy for state defense industry products, either through international cooperation or offset agreements. Although many products made by the Indonesian defense industry are still not of the best quality, surprisingly there are several products that have captured international market attention. For instance, Malaysia has planned to purchase Indonesian-made Panser armored personnel vehicles and US has already purchased sport ammunition made by PT PINDAD. The strategy would allow state defense industries to reduce their dependency on local security institutions, which currently buy about 80 percent of their output. In order to achieve the MEP, development requirements should be fulfilled. One alternative is for the government to allocate financial assistance to improve the quality of arms producers with a large market potential. For example, PT PINDAD has already received a great demand for its bullets, domestically and overseas. Nevertheless, this industry has been unable to meet market demands due to its limited capacity or obsolete machinery. This is the point where government support is needed. Besides increasing production capacity, this strategy would also add value to the product. As Josse and Pier note, the governments of semi-industrial countries tend to support high-tech weapons at significant cost, although the products are not a military necessity. Therefore, the government should be cautious about its ambitious agenda. Further, financial assistance is also needed for research and development activities (R&D), especially for high-demand weapons that state defense industries have not been able to produce. Considering the vast budget needed for R&D, the government could solve its problems by improving access to international cooperation. By its nature, international cooperation will increase the production capacity of state defense industries, improve human resources, access to technology and curb dependency on government assistance. International cooperation is more effective than the transfer of technology, which relies heavily on the absorption capability of human resources and infrastructure — and often failing due to the unreadiness of both. On the other hand, international cooperation provides more advantages through the involvement of foreign partners in the process of enhancing industrial capacity. However, it should be noted that the challenge of international cooperation lies on the level of state sovereignty, which cannot be compromised. Therefore, clear regulations are needed to determine how far international cooperation can be applied to state defense industries. A similar strategy has been implemented and worked well in Russia. “Strategy before structure” is the mantra of success for state defense industries. It is obvious that the industries cannot survive without government financial support. Nevertheless, it will take a further government commitment to prepare state defense industries for self-reliance. With 21 to 27 percent of the budget allocated to defense, the government should be careful about maintaining its defense industry policies. Otherwise, this golden momentum will be gone with the wind. Diandra Megaputri studies defense management at the Indonesian Defense University and Al Araf is the program director of the human rights group Imparsial. Copyright © 2008 The Jakarta Post - PT Bina Media Tenggara. All Rights Reserved.

Textile industry

The textile industry is primarily concerned with the production of yarn, and cloth and the subsequent design or manufacture of clothing and their distribution. The raw material may be natural, or synthetic using products of the chemical industry.

History

[edit] Cottage stage

Main article: Textile manufacturing by pre-industrial methods

Prior to the 17th century, the manufacture of goods was performed on a limited scale by individual workers. This was usually on their own premises (such as weavers' cottages) – and goods were transported around the country clothiers visited the village with their trains of pack-horses. Some of the cloth was made into clothes for people living in the same area and a large amount of cloth was exported. Rivers navigations were constructed, and some contour following canals. In the early 18th century, artisans were inventing ways to become more productive. Silk, Wool, Fustian, and Linen were being eclipsed by Cotton which was becoming the most important textile. This set the foundations for the changes. .^[1] It was during the late medieval period, cotton became imported into northern Europe, without any knowledge of what it came from other than that it was a plant; noting its similarities to wool, people in the region could only imagine that cotton must be produced by plant-borne sheep. John Mandeville, writing in 1350, stated as fact the now-preposterous belief: "There grew there [India] a wonderful tree which bore tiny lambs on the endes of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they are hungry." This aspect is retained in the name for cotton in many European languages, such as German Baumwolle, which translates as "tree wool". By the end of the 16th century, cotton was cultivated throughout the warmer regions of Asia and the Americas.
In Roman times, wool, linen and leather had clothed the European population and silk, imported along the Silk Road from China, was an extravagant luxury. The use of flax fibre in the manufacturing of cloth in Northern Europe dates back to Neolithic times.
The main steps are: Producing the fibre, preparing it, converting it to yarn, converting yarn to grey cloth and then finishing the cloth. The cloth is then taken to the manufacturer of garments. The preparation of the fibers differs the most depending on the fiber used. Flax requires retting and dressing, while wool requires carding and washing. The spinning and weaving processes are very similar between fibers though.
Spinning evolved from twisting the fibers by hand using a drop spindle, to using a spinning wheel. Spindles or parts of them have been found in archaeological sites and may represent one of the fist pieces of technology available. They were invented in India between 500 and 1000 AD^[2]
Weaving, done on a loom has been around for as long as spinning. There are some indications that weaving was already known in the Palaeolithic. An indistinct textile impression has been found at Pavlov, Moravia. Neolithic textiles are well known from finds in pile dwellings in Switzerland. One extant fragment from the Neolithic was found in Fayum at a site which dates to about 5000 BCE.
The key British industry at the beginning of the 18th century was the production of textiles made with wool from the large sheep-farming areas in the Midlands and across the country (created as a result of land-clearance and enclosure).This was a labour-intensive activity providing employment throughout Britain, with major centres being the West Country; Norwich and environs; and the West Riding of Yorkshire. The export trade in woolen goods accounted for more than a quarter of British exports during most of the 18th century, doubling between 1701 and 1770 [2]. Exports of the cotton industry – centered in Lancashire – had grown tenfold during this time, but still accounted for only a tenth of the value of the woolen trade.

[edit] History during the industrial revolution

Main article: Textile manufacture during the Industrial Revolution

The textile industry grew out of the industrial revolution in the 18th Century as mass production of yarn and cloth became a mainstream industry.ref>Hammond, J.L.; Hammond, Barbara (1919) (pdf), The Skilled Labourer 1760-1832, London: Longmans, Green and co., p. 51, http://www.archive.org/details/skilledlabourer00hammiala 
In 1734 in Bury, Lancashire, John Kay invented the flying shuttle — one of the first of a series of inventions associated with the cotton industry. The flying shuttle increased the width of cotton cloth and speed of production of a single weaver at a loom.^[3] Resistance by workers to the perceived threat to jobs delayed the widespread introduction of this technology, even though the higher rate of production generated an increased demand for spun cotton.

Shuttles

In 1761, the Duke of Bridgewater's canal connected Manchester to the coal fields of Worsley and in 1762, Matthew Boulton opened the Soho Foundry engineering works in Handsworth, Birmingham. His partnership with Scottish engineer James Watt resulted, in 1775, in the commercial production of the more efficient Watt steam engine which used a separate condensor.
In 1764, James Hargreaves is credited as inventor of the spinning jenny which multiplied the spun thread production capacity of a single worker — initially eightfold and subsequently much further. Others ^[4] credit the original invention to Thomas Highs. Industrial unrest and a failure to patent the invention until 1770 forced Hargreaves from Blackburn, but his lack of protection of the idea allowed the concept to be exploited by others. As a result, there were over 20,000 Spinning Jennies in use by the time of his death. Again in 1764, Thorp Mill, the first water-powered cotton mill in the world was constructed at Royton, Lancashire, England. It was used for carding cotton. With the spinning and weaving process now mechanized, cotton mills cropped up all over the North West of England.

[edit] Later developments

For further details of the operation and history of looms, see Power loom.

For further details of the operation and history of spinning mules, see Spinning mule.

With the Cartwright Loom, the Spinning Mule and the Boulton & Watt steam engine, the pieces were in place to build a mechanised textile industry. From this point there were no new inventions, but a continuous improvement in technology as the mill-owner strove to reduce cost and improve quality. Developments in the transport infrastructure; that is the canals and after 1831 the railways facilitated the import of raw materials and export of finished cloth.
Firstly, he use of water power to drive mills was supplemented by steam driven water pumps, and then superseded completely by the steam engines. For example Samuel Greg joined his uncle's firm of textile merchants, and, on taking over the company in 1782, he sought out a site to establish a mill.Quarry Bank Mill was built on the River Bollin at Styal in Cheshire. It was initially powered by a water wheel, but installed steam engines in 1810.Quarry Bank Mill in Cheshire still exists as a well preserved museum, having been in use from its construction in 1784 until 1959. It also illustrates how the mill owners exploited child labour, taking orphans from nearby Manchester to work the cotton. It shows that these children were housed, clothed, fed and provided with some education. In 1830, the average power of a mill engine was 48 hp, but Quarry Bank mill installed an new 100 hp water wheel.^[5] William Fairbairn addressed the problem of line-shafting and was responsible for improving the efficiency of the mill. In 1815 he replaced the wooden turning shafts that drove the machines at 50rpm, to wrought iron shafting working at 250 rpm, these were a third of the weight of the previous ones and absorbed less power.^[5]

A Roberts loom in a weaving shed in 1835. Note the wrought iron shafting, fixed to the cast iron columns

Secondly, in 1830, using a 1822 patent, Richard Roberts manufactured the first loom with a cast iron frame, the Roberts Loom.^[3] In 1842 James Bullough and William Kenworthy, made the Lancashire Loom . It is a semi automatic power loom. Although it is self-acting, it has to be stopped to recharge empty shuttles. It was the mainstay of the Lancashire cotton industry for a century, when the [ Originally, power looms were shuttle-operated but in the early part of the 20th century the faster and more efficient shuttleless loom came into use. Today, advances in technology have produced a variety of looms designed to maximize production for specific types of material. The most common of these are air-jet looms and water-jet looms. Industrial looms can weave at speeds of six rows per second and faster.

Roberts self acting mule with quadrant gearing

Thirdly, also in 1830, Richard Roberts patented the first self-acting mule. Stalybridge mule spinners strike was in 1824,this stimulated research into the problem of applying power to the winding stroke of the mule.^[6] The draw while spinning had been assisted by power, but the push of the wind had been done manually by the spinner, the mule could be operated by semiskilled labour. Before 1830, the spinner would operate a partially-powered mule with a maximum of 400 spindles after, self-acting mules with up to 1300 spindles could be built.^[7]

The industrial revolution changed the nature of work and society The three key drivers in these changes were textile manufacturing, iron founding and steam power.^{[8][9] [10][11]} The geographical focus of textile manufacture in Britain was Manchester, England and the small towns of the Pennines and southern Lancashire.
Textile production in England peaked in 1926, and as mills were decommissioned, many of the scrapped mules and looms were bought up and reinstated in India. The demographic change made by the Great European War, had made the labour-intensive industry un-profitable in England, but in India and later China it was an aid to development.

[edit] The industrial processes

Cotton Manufacturing Processes (after Murray 1911)

	Bale Breaker				Blowing Room
	Willowing
	Breaker Scutcher		Batting
	Finishing Scutcher		Lapping
	Carding				Carding Room
	Silver Lap
	Combing
	Drawing
	Slubbing
	Intermediate
	Roving		Fine Roving
	Mule Spinning	-	Ring Spinning		Spinning
			Reeling		Doubling
	Winding		Bundling		Bleaching
					Winding
	Warping				Cabling
	Sizing/Slashing/Dressing				Gassing
	Weaving				Spooling
	Cloth		Yarn (Cheese)- - Bundle		Sewing Thread

Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries.^[12]
There are five stages^[13]

• Cultivating and Harvesting
• Preparatory Processes
• Spinning
• Weaving
• Finishing

[edit] Fibres

Artificial fibres can be are made by extruding a polymer, through a spinneret into a medium where it hardens. Wet spinning (rayon) uses a coagulating medium In dry spinning (acetate and triacetate), the polymer is contained in a solvent that evaporates in the heated exit chamber. In melt spinning (nylons and polyesters) the extruded polymer is cooled in gas or air and then sets.^[14] . All these fibres will be of great length, often kilometers log.
Natural fibres are either from animals (sheep, goat, rabbit, silk-worm) mineral (asbestos) or from plants (cotton, flax, sisal). These vegetable fibres can come from the seed (cotton), the stem (known as bast fibres: flax,Hemp,Jute) or the leaf (sisal).^[15] Without exception, many processes are needed before a clean even staple is obtained- each with a specific name. With the exception of silk, each of these fibres is short being only centimetres in length, and each has a rough surface that enables it to bond with similar staples.^[16]
Arificial fibres can be processed as long fibres or batched and cut so they can be processed like a natural fibre.

[edit] Commerce and Regulation

The Multi Fibre Arrangement (MFA) governed the world trade in textiles and garments from 1974 through 2004, imposing quotas on the amount developing countries could export to developed countries. It expired on 1 January 2005.
The MFA was introduced in 1974 as a short-term measure intended to allow developed countries to adjust to imports from the developing world. Developing countries have a natural advantage in textile production because it is labor intensive and they have low labor costs. According to a World Bank/International Monetary Fund (IMF) study, the system has cost the developing world 27 million jobs and $40 billion a year in lost exports. ^[17]
However, the Arrangement was not negative for all developing countries. For example the European Union (EU) imposed no restrictions or duties on imports from the very poorest countries, such as Bangladesh, leading to a massive expansion of the industry there.
At the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) Uruguay Round, it was decided to bring the textile trade under the jurisdiction of the World Trade Organization. The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing provided for the gradual dismantling of the quotas that existed under the MFA. This process was completed on 1 January 2005. However, large tariffs remain in place on many textile products.
Bangladesh was expected to suffer the most from the ending of the MFA, as it was expected to face more competition, particularly from China. However, this was not the case. It turns out that even in the face of other economic giants, Bangladesh’s labor is “cheaper than anywhere else in the world.” While some smaller factories were documented making pay cuts and layoffs, most downsizing was essentially speculative – the orders for goods kept coming even after the MFA expired. In fact, Bangladesh's exports increased in value by about $500 million in 2006.^[18]

[edit] Organisations

[edit] Statistics

Number of Looms in UK

Year	1803	1820	1829	1833	1857
Looms	2400	14650	55500	100000	250000

^[19]

Number of Spindles in UK

Year	1803	1820	1829	1833	1857
Looms	2400	14650	55500	100000	250000

^[20]

[edit] See also

[edit] References

Notes

1. ^ Industrial Revolution and the Standard of Living: The Concise Encyclopedia of Economics, Library of Economics and Liberty
2. ^ Cotton: Origin, History, Technology, and Production By C. Wayne Smith, Joe Tom Cothren. Page viii. Published 1999. John Wiley and Sons. Technology & Industrial Arts. 864 pages. ISBN 0471180459
3. ^ ^{a b} Williams & Farnie 1992, p. 11
4. ^ [1]
5. ^ ^{a b} Hills 1993, p. 113
6. ^ Hills 1993, p. 118
7. ^ Williams & Farnie 1992, p. 9
8. ^ Eric Hobsbawm, The Age of Revolution: Europe 1789–1848, Weidenfeld & Nicolson Ltd. ISBN 0-349-10484-0
9. ^ Joseph E Inikori. Africans and the Industrial Revolution in England, Cambridge University Press. ISBN 0-521-01079-9 Read it
10. ^ Berg, Maxine (1992). "Rehabilitating the Industrial Revolution". The Economic History Review 45: 24. doi:10.2307/2598327. 
11. ^ Rehabilitating the Industrial Revolution by Julie Lorenzen, Central Michigan University. Retrieved November 2006.
12. ^ Majeed, A (January 19, 2009), Cotton and textiles — the challenges ahead, Dawn-the Internet edition, http://www.dawn.com/2009/01/19/ebr5.htm, retrieved 2009-02-12 
13. ^ "Machin processes", Spinning the Web (Manchester City Council: Libraries), http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/industry/machproc.php, retrieved 2009-01-29 
14. ^ Collier 1970, p. 33
15. ^ Collier 1970, p. 5
16. ^ Collier 1970, p. 5
17. ^ Presentation by H.E. K.M. Chandrasekhar, Chairman ITCB, EC Conference on the Future of Textiles and Clothing after 2004, Brussels, 5 – 6 May 2003. http://www.itcb.org/Documents/ITCB-MI35.pdf
18. ^ Haider, Mahtab. “Defying predictions, Bangladesh’s garment factories thrive.” The Christian Science Monitor. 7 Feb 2006. 11 Feb 2007. http://www.csmonitor.com/2006/0207/p04s02-wosc.html
19. ^ Hills 1993, p. 117
20. ^ Hills 1993, p. 117

Bibliography

• Collier, Ann M (1970), A Handbook of Textiles, Pergamon Press, pp. 258, ISBN 0 08 018057 4, 0 08 018056 6 
• Copeland, Melvin Thomas. The cotton manufacturing industry of the United States (Harvard University Press, 1912) online
• Cameron, Edward H. Samuel Slater, Father of American Manufactures (1960) scholarly biography
• Conrad, Jr., James L. "'Drive That Branch': Samuel Slater, the Power Loom, and the Writing of America's Textile History," Technology and Culture, Vol. 36, No. 1 (Jan., 1995), pp. 1–28 in JSTOR
• Griffiths, T., Hunt, P.A., and O’Brien, P. K. "Inventive activity in the British textile industry", Journal of Economic History, 52 (1992), pp. 881–906.
• Griffiths, Trevor; Hunt, Philip; O’Brien, Patrick. "Scottish, Irish, and imperial connections: Parliament, the three kingdoms, and the mechanization of cotton spinning in eighteenth-century Britain," Economic History Review, Aug 2008, Vol. 61 Issue 3, pp 625–650
• Smelser; Neil J. Social Change in the Industrial Revolution: An Application of Theory to the British Cotton Industry (1959)
• Tucker, Barbara M. "The Merchant, the Manufacturer, and the Factory Manager: The Case of Samuel Slater," Business History Review, Vol. 55, No. 3 (Autumn, 1981), pp. 297–313 in JSTOR
• Tucker, Barbara M. Samuel Slater and the Origins of the American Textile Industry, 1790-1860 (1984)

[edit] External links

• Step By step Process in Textile industry
• History of the Textile industry

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